The top pick for a fake IW323799 is a top-tier build on a Swiss-pattern automatic (an ETA 2892 clone or a decorated Miyota 9015), with a case and integrated bracelet machined to the genuine's published dimensions and a dial that holds up under a loupe. I compared the options on five things: movement, case and bracelet finishing, dial and date execution, caseback and water resistance, and parts support. Everything below assumes you have already confirmed what the reference number actually denotes, because that step is where most buyers go wrong.

Pin down the reference before you compare replicas

IWC uses an eight-character reference format: IW plus six digits. The leading digits point to the family and case, and the trailing digits separate variants such as case metal, dial color and bracelet style. A suffix like 99 is not a model in itself, it is a pointer to a specific configuration inside that family.

Two things follow from this. First, ask the seller to state the case metal, dial color and bracelet type in writing, then check those against IWC's own product listing for that reference. Second, if a listing shows the reference with a photo of a watch in a different metal or with a different dial, you are looking at a mismatched listing, not a rare variant.

• Do this: screenshot the official spec sheet and keep it next to the seller's photos while you compare.
• Skip this: buying on the strength of a reference number alone, since the same number appears on wildly different quality levels.

Criterion 1: Movement

The movement sets the price floor and the long-term ownership experience. Most replicas in this family run one of three ways: a basic 2824-style clone, a Miyota 9015, or a 2892-style clone with decoration. A 2892-based movement is thinner, which matters on an integrated-bracelet watch where case thickness is visible from the side.

• Pros of a 2892-style or decorated Miyota build: closer case thickness, smoother winding, better parts availability, easier service by an independent watchmaker.
• Cons: higher cost, and decorated plates can hide a lower-grade base if you never see the movement before purchase.
• Pros of a basic 2824 clone: cheap, common, easy to replace whole rather than repair.
• Cons: thicker, rotor noise on some batches, and date-change feel that is noticeably coarser.

Use case: if the watch will be worn regularly, pay for the thinner movement. If it is a display piece for a collection, the basic movement is fine.

Criterion 2: Case and bracelet finishing

Integrated-bracelet designs live or die on the transition between brushed and polished surfaces and on how the end links meet the case. Ask for a straight-on photo of the lug area and a photo of the bracelet from underneath.

• Pros of a well-finished case: crisp bevels, consistent brushing direction, end links that sit flush with no gap or step.
• Cons of the cheap tier: rounded bevels from over-polishing, visible machining marks under the brushing, and a bracelet that rattles at the first link.
• Also check: the clasp engraving depth and whether the bracelet tapers the way the genuine does.

Use case: this is the single most visible difference on the wrist. Spend your budget here before spending it on the dial.

Criterion 3: Dial, hands and date

Look for applied indices that sit level, printing that is sharp under magnification, and a date window that is centered with the wheel sitting square behind it. Lume that is unevenly applied shows up in low light.

• Pros of a good dial: correct font weight, no ink spread at the minute track, hands with clean edges and a properly domed profile.
• Cons: misaligned date wheels are the most common flaw in mid-tier batches, and correcting one means a movement swap.
• Ask for: a macro photo of the date at the 3 o'clock position and one of the dial at an angle.

Use case: if you photograph your watches, the dial is worth the upgrade. If not, put the money into the case.

Criterion 4: Caseback and water resistance

Engraving depth, caseback thread quality and gasket condition decide whether the watch survives a hand wash. Replicas are not pressure tested to the standard printed on the caseback, so treat any water resistance figure as a claim rather than a guarantee.

• Pros: a properly seated gasket and a caseback that threads smoothly can be tested by any local watchmaker for a small fee.
• Cons: thin engraving, mismatched serial formatting, and crown tubes that feel gritty.

Use case: have any replica pressure tested before swimming. Never assume.

Tier comparison: entry, mid, top

Entry tier

• Pros: low cost, acceptable from arm's length, good for a single event.
• Cons: thick case, rough bracelet edges, basic movement, no parts support.

Mid tier

• Pros: better brushing, Miyota 9015 options, decent dial printing, reasonable value.
• Cons: date alignment varies by batch, bracelet fit is inconsistent.

Top tier

• Pros: correct thickness, clean bracelet integration, serviceable movement, sellable later.
• Cons: highest price, longer lead times, and you still need to inspect on arrival.

Recommendation: choose mid tier for occasional wear, top tier for regular wear or resale, and entry tier only when the watch is a one-night purchase.

Red flags to walk away from

• Stock photos instead of photos of the actual unit.
• No movement name given, or a vague answer like "imported automatic."
• A reference number that does not match the dial or metal in the photos.
• Refusal to send a macro shot of the date window or the clasp.

Legal and practical note

Counterfeit watch sales are illegal in the United States, and US Customs can seize imported parcels, including single shipments bought for personal use. Selling a counterfeit as genuine is a separate and more serious offense. Buy with that in mind, keep receipts, and never represent a replica as an original.