The best fake IW371475 for most buyers is the top-tier clone that runs an automatic 7750-based chronograph inside a 41 mm steel case. That combination is the only one that gets the bicompax dial layout, the pusher feel and the case silhouette close to the genuine Portugieser Chronograph. Cheaper tiers can look convincing in listing photos, but they fail on the three points this guide grades: movement architecture, dial and case execution, and strap and clasp hardware.
One clarification before the comparisons. IW371475 is a reference number from the IWC Portugieser Chronograph line, not a model name. Replicas get built against the visual traits of that family: a 41 mm case, twin subdials at 12 and 6, a slim bezel, and no date aperture on the classic dial layout. Two fakes sold under the same reference can differ a great deal inside, so ask about the movement before you ask about the price.
Tier 1: Budget quartz and low-grade automatics
This is the entry shelf. Cases are often cast from generic molds, and the chronograph is frequently decorative: the pushers click, but the hands do not record anything.
Pros
- Lowest cost of the three tiers, so replacing one hurts little.
- Quartz versions keep time well and never need winding.
- Light on the wrist and fine for photos, costume use, or a single event.
Cons
- Subdial spacing is usually wrong, with the 12 and 6 counters sitting too far apart or too close together.
- The upper subdial often runs as a 24-hour indicator or a second hand instead of a 30-minute totalizer.
- Case height runs 1 mm to 2 mm thicker than the genuine profile, which changes how it sits under a cuff.
- Mineral glass, printed indices, and lume that fades within minutes.
Worth it if: you want the silhouette for a costume, a shoot, or one night out, and nobody will hold it under a loupe.
Tier 2: A7750-based chronographs
This is the working middle ground. The Asian 7750 is a real chronograph movement with a 30-minute counter, and builders who use it usually get the vertical subdial layout right.
Pros
- The chronograph actually functions, with start, stop and reset behaving as expected.
- Correct bicompax arrangement on most builds, so the dial reads like the reference at arm's length.
- Sapphire crystal on better examples, along with applied indices.
- Any watchmaker who services 7750 movements can work on it.
Cons
- The 7750 family is thicker than the column-wheel calibre in the genuine watch, so the case gains height.
- Rotor wobble is audible, and the winding action feels rougher than the original.
- Pushers can feel gritty until broken in, and subdial hand lengths often miss the printed track.
- Caseback engraving is frequently shallow compared with the real thing.
Worth it if: you want a daily wearer with a functioning chronograph and you accept a slightly taller case.
Tier 3: Top-tier decorated clones
These builds chase proportions rather than features. The case is machined closer to the genuine 41 mm dimensions, the dial printing is sharper, and the movement is dressed to resemble the in-house calibre.
Pros
- Closest case thickness and bezel profile of the three tiers.
- Anti-reflective coating on both crystal surfaces, which changes how the dial reads in daylight.
- Applied indices with correct lume plots, plus a rehaut that matches the reference depth.
- Decorated bridges and a rotor finished to imitate the genuine movement.
- Better strap options at purchase, including alligator-pattern leather with a signed buckle.
Cons
- Highest cost of the three tiers.
- Stock swings widely, so the exact variant you want may not be available.
- It still uses a cam-actuated chronograph, so pusher feel stays a step behind the genuine column wheel.
- Decorated movements discourage local service, which makes repairs awkward.
Worth it if: you want one convincing piece for regular wrist time rather than several cheap ones, and you expect to keep it long enough to justify the outlay.
Criterion: dial and case execution
The dial is where fakes get caught. Spend your attention on subdial spacing, hand length, and index height before you look at anything else.
Pros of prioritizing this
- Correct subdial spacing fixes the single most obvious tell at conversation distance.
- Hand length against the printed track shows whether the builder used reference-correct parts.
- A thinner case hides better under a shirt cuff and photographs more accurately.
Cons of prioritizing this
- Dial accuracy usually costs more than movement upgrades at this price band.
- Macro-accurate dials still cannot fix a movement that sits too high in the case.
Worth it if: you wear the watch in daylight around people who know the reference.
Criterion: strap, clasp and finishing
Straps are the cheapest part to swap and the fastest way to change how a fake reads on the wrist. Genuine Portugieser Chronographs ship on leather with a pin buckle or folding clasp depending on the variant, and most replica straps use stiffer leather with coarser stitching.
Pros
- An aftermarket leather strap closes most of the gap for a small spend.
- Brushed and polished case transitions can be checked with a fingernail: sharp edges mean rushed finishing.
Cons
- Replica buckles often have soft engraving and lighter plating than the case.
- Folding clasps from budget tiers tend to rattle.
Worth it if: you plan to wear the watch with short sleeves, where the strap and clasp stay visible.
Checks to run before you pay
- Request macro photos of the dial, caseback and clasp, not just a wrist shot.
- Ask for the measured case thickness and compare it against the reference figure.
- Confirm what the upper subdial does: a 30-minute counter, not a 24-hour hand.
- Confirm the crystal is sapphire, and ask whether it has anti-reflective coating.
- Check that the classic dial has no date aperture, since an added window is a clear mismatch.
- Read the return terms before payment, and pay with a method that offers a dispute route.
Buy the tier that matches how you will wear it. A Tier 2 build with a good dial and a strap upgrade beats a Tier 3 build you are afraid to put on.