The strongest choice for most buyers is a Swiss-movement fake IW371743 built on a Valjoux 7750 style chronograph, because this reference is judged on dial layout and pusher feel, and that tier gets closer on both than quartz or low-grade automatic builds. Four criteria decide whether any replica of this reference is worth wearing: subdial geometry and dial printing, case and pusher finishing, movement type and chronograph action, and strap or bracelet quality. Everything below is written around those four tests.

What the IW371743 asks of a replica

The reference sits in the Portugieser Chronograph family: a wide polished case with a slim bezel, leaf shaped hands, a clean dial with applied markers, two subdials stacked on the vertical axis, and a date window at 3. The running seconds sit at 6 and the chronograph minutes counter sits at 12. That vertical stack is the part that separates a serious build from a toy, because the genuine movement drives both counters directly across from each other while many off the shelf chronograph movements place a subdial at 9 instead. A maker has to add a transfer module or use a movement with the correct layout, and both choices show up in the case height and the price asked.

• Pros of choosing this reference: a two-register dial is simple enough that errors are easy to spot before you buy, there are no calendar or moonphase complications to fake, and straps swap in seconds.
• Cons: the stacked subdials force a module in most builds, which adds thickness, and the plain polished case leaves nowhere to hide sloppy brushing or a soft crown.

Criterion one: dial printing and subdial geometry

Set the dial at arm's length. The subdials should sit on a true vertical line through the center, with equal space above and below the pinion. Rings should look cut into the dial rather than printed on top of it, and the markers should be applied, with visible depth at an angle.

• Signs it is done well: thin, sharp printing that does not bleed under magnification, a date window with clean edges and no white halo around the disc, and hands whose tips reach the chapter ring without overhanging it.
• Signs it is not: subdials drifted off axis, a date font that looks bolder than the rest of the dial, markers glued flat, and logo text that breaks apart under a loupe.

Criterion two: case, bezel, and pusher finishing

The case is the second place a replica gives itself away. Look at the line where the lugs meet the case band, the curve of the bezel, and the profile of the crown. Pushers should sit level, screw down without grit, and return with a short, clean click.

• Signs it is done well: mirror polish on the bezel that does not wash out the edges, lugs with a soft radius rather than a knife edge, and a crown with fine knurling that sits flush against the case.
• Signs it is not: visible tool marks on the case back, a bezel that sits proud of the crystal, pushers that wobble in their tubes, and a case that measures noticeably thicker than the reference it copies.

Criterion three: movement and chronograph action

Movement type is the single biggest price divider in the replica market. Ask what is inside before you look at the dial again.

• Swiss movement builds: smoother winding, a chronograph that starts without a jump, and better long term serviceability. Cost and shipping risk are higher.
• Asian automatic builds: good value and often the correct subdial layout, but reset can be imprecise and the rotor can be noisy.
• Quartz builds: the second hand ticks, which no mechanical chronograph does, so the illusion fails the moment the watch is running.

Test the chronograph before you commit: start it, let it run two minutes, then reset. The minutes counter should snap back to zero in one motion.

Criterion four: strap, bracelet, and clasp

Alligator style straps on replicas are usually embossed calf, which is fine if the grain is subtle and the stitching is even. On steel versions, check that the end links sit tight against the lugs with no gap and that the clasp closes with a firm click rather than a rattle.

• Signs it is done well: a strap that tapers, stitching that matches the dial tone, and a deployant or pin buckle with the correct proportions.
• Signs it is not: stiff plastic-feeling leather, glue visible at the edges, end links that flex, and a clasp stamped so shallowly it looks painted.

Budget tier: quartz and entry automatic builds

These are the cheapest way into the look. They photograph well and wear poorly.

• Pros: low outlay, light weight, and no service concerns.
• Cons: ticking seconds hand, wrong subdial spacing, dull printing, and plating that wears through on the case edges within months.

Use case: a costume piece for a single event, not a daily wearer.

Mid tier: Asian automatic with a corrected subdial layout

This is where the market gets interesting. A well-chosen mid tier build puts the counters in the right places and spends its budget on the dial rather than the box.

• Pros: correct vertical subdial stack, sapphire crystal on most examples, decent case finishing, and a price that leaves room for a strap upgrade.
• Cons: inconsistent quality between batches, thicker case than the original, and chronograph reset that can drift.

Use case: the buyer who wants the look at arm's length and does not plan to open the case back.

Top tier: Swiss movement builds

The top tier is the one to pick if you wear the watch often and care about how the chronograph feels in the hand.

• Pros: correct layout without a thick transfer module, crisper pusher action, better winding feel, and finishing that survives close inspection.
• Cons: highest cost, longer lead times, and the same legal exposure as any other counterfeit.

Use case: the collector who already owns real watches and wants a daily beater that reads correctly across a table.

Red flags that show up in photos

• Seller images shot only from the front, never the case back or the crown side.
• Subdials that do not line up with the center of the dial when you draw a straight line down the image.
• Date windows with a visible step or a white ring around the aperture.
• The same photo set reused across several listings under different reference numbers.

Which tier suits which buyer

Buy the mid tier if you want the reference's proportions on a normal budget and you accept a thicker case. Step up to the Swiss movement tier if the chronograph action matters to you and you plan to keep the watch for years. Skip the quartz tier entirely unless the watch is a one night costume, because the ticking seconds hand defeats the whole point of copying a mechanical chronograph. One caution applies at every tier: counterfeit watch sales are illegal in the United States and in most of the European Union, and customs seizures are routine, so treat the purchase as a legal risk as well as a quality one.