What Is the Rolex 1655 Steve McQueen Explorer II?
The Rolex 1655 is the first Explorer II, made from 1971 to 1985 with a fixed 24-hour steel bezel and an orange arrow hand. A fake Rolex 1655 Steve McQueen replica copies that case, dial, and hand, then hides a modern automatic movement inside. The detail most replicas miss: on the real watch the 24-hour hand moves with the hour hand and cannot be set on its own.
Reference 1655 at a glance
- Production: 1971 to 1985
- Case: stainless steel, about 40 mm, crown guards at 3
- Bezel: fixed steel, 24-hour scale, no rotation
- Dial: black with white lume plots and an orange 24-hour arrow hand
- Date: at 3 o'clock, no Cyclops magnifier
- Crystal: domed acrylic
- Movement: Rolex caliber 1575, automatic
- Bracelet: Oyster, folded links
Why Is It Called the Steve McQueen?
There is no photo of Steve McQueen wearing an Explorer II 1655. The nickname came from dealers and collectors in the 1980s who tied the actor to the Explorer line. Rolex never used the name in a catalog or an ad.
The actor's real watch connection is the Submariner 5512 and 5513. The Explorer II nickname stuck anyway, and it now drives search traffic and replica demand. That gap between myth and reality is worth knowing before you shop.
What Makes the 1655 Different From Later Explorer IIs?
Later Explorer IIs added a rotating bezel, a sapphire crystal, and an independent 24-hour hand. The 1655 has none of those. It also lacks the Cyclops lens over the date, which gives the dial a flat, wide look.
Dial and bezel details changed across the run, from Mark I to Mark VII. The bezel font, the shape of the orange arrow, the lume plots, and the "T SWISS T" or "SWISS - T < 25" marking at 6 all shift by era. A replica that pairs a Mark I dial with a Mark V bezel is a mismatch.
How Does the 24-Hour Hand Work on the 1655?
The 24-hour arrow hand is fixed to the hour hand and travels with it. You cannot set it apart, and the bezel does not turn, so the watch is not a true GMT. You read a second time zone by tracking the arrow against the fixed bezel scale.
This is the hardest part to copy with off-the-shelf parts. Most GMT movements sold today let the user set the 24-hour hand on its own, which no 1655 does. A seller who brags about an independent GMT hand is describing the wrong watch.
What Should You Check on a Fake Rolex 1655 Steve McQueen?
- 24-hour hand behavior. Turn the crown and watch the orange hand. It must move with the hour hand and stop when the hands stop.
- Bezel. Fixed steel with a printed 24-hour scale. If it rotates, it copies a later Explorer II design.
- Crystal. Domed acrylic with no magnifier over the date. A Cyclops lens is a giveaway.
- Case and crown guards. Thick guards at 3, brushed sides, no mirror polish.
- Dial text. Marker layout, font weight, and the six o'clock marking should match one dial mark, not several.
- Caseback. Plain steel with stamped reference numbers, no exhibition glass.
- Bracelet. Oyster style with folded links, not a modern solid-link bracelet with a glide lock clasp.
- Movement spec. Ask for the caliber name, beat rate, and power reserve before you pay.
Which Movements Show Up in Replica 1655 Watches?
- Asian 2836 GMT clone: 28,800 vph, about 40 hours of power, spare parts easy to find.
- ETA 2836-2: the Swiss-labeled option, same beat rate, smoother winding feel.
- Seagull ST2130: 28,800 vph, close to ETA in layout, less common in GMT builds.
- Miyota 8215: 21,600 vph, lower cost, often non-hacking on older batches.
The movement sets the price tier more than the case does. A good case with a rough movement feels worse on the wrist than a plain case with a clean one.
Price Tiers for Replica Explorer II 1655 Watches
Builds split into three groups, and the gap shows in small details.
- Entry: printed bezel insert, thick case, mineral glass, low-beat movement.
- Mid: better dial printing, domed acrylic, clone 2836, decent bracelet.
- Top: matched dial and bezel marks, engraved caseback, ETA-based movement, end links shaped like the vintage originals.
Ask for photos of the bezel, the caseback, and the crown before buying. Sellers who send stock images instead of the actual watch are a risk.
Legal and Practical Notes
A replica is not a Rolex, carries no Rolex warranty, and cannot be serviced by Rolex. Selling one as genuine is fraud. US customs can seize replica shipments, so returns and refunds are hard to enforce.
Treat a replica as a costume piece. It has no collector resale value, and genuine vintage parts do not fit it. Keep that in mind if the goal is a stand-in for a real 1655 rather than an investment.
FAQ: Fake Rolex 1655 Steve McQueen
Did Steve McQueen ever wear the Explorer II 1655?
No confirmed photo shows him with one. The link comes from dealer lore, not from his wrist.
Why do people call the 1655 the "Freccione"?
Freccione is Italian for "big arrow," a name for the orange 24-hour hand.
How long was the 1655 in production?
About 14 years, from 1971 through 1985, with several dial and bezel updates along the way.
Does the 1655 have a rotating bezel?
No. The bezel is fixed steel, and the 24-hour scale stays in place.
Is a replica 1655 waterproof?
Do not assume it is. Gaskets and case assembly vary by seller, and a depth rating claim means little without a pressure test.