The Rolex Explorer II reference 1655 is the watch the market calls the Steve McQueen. Counterfeit versions exist in large numbers, and most are built from a modern case with vintage styling added. A real 1655 uses a 40 mm case, a fixed steel bezel with a 24 hour scale, an orange 24 hour hand, and the Rolex caliber 1575. A fake often misses at least one of these points. The steps below show where to look.
What the Reference 1655 Is
Rolex launched the Explorer II 1655 in 1971 for cave explorers and people who work in places with no daylight. The 24 hour hand and the fixed 24 hour bezel let the wearer read day and night from one dial. Production ran to the mid 1980s. Early dials carry the 'T Swiss T' mark at six o'clock. The case measures 40 mm across and 47 mm from lug to lug.
Case and Bezel Tells
Start with the bezel. The real 1655 bezel is steel, not ceramic, and the 24 hour numerals are engraved and filled with black paint. Fakes often use a laser etched insert with fonts that run too wide or too thin. Next, check the lugs. Original lugs have a soft bevel and a drilled lug hole. Many counterfeit cases show sharp edges and no lug holes. The crown guards on a real 1655 sit close to the crown and taper into the case. A fake case often has thick, blocky guards.
Dial and Hand Tells
Look at the dial print. Rolex used a serif font on early 1655 dials. The word 'Explorer' sits above 'II' and the line 'Oyster Perpetual Date' runs below. A counterfeit dial tends to use a sans serif font or wrong spacing. The orange 24 hour hand on a real watch has a broad arrow tip and a matte finish. Copies use a narrow tip or a glossy orange that looks new. Check the lume. Real tritium lume on a 1655 turns cream or pumpkin with age. Fake lume stays white or glows bright green under a light.
Movement and Caseback
Open the caseback if you own the watch or have permission. The real 1655 runs on the caliber 1575, a 26 jewel automatic with a date. The rotor and bridges carry Rolex stamps and a reference number. Replica movements, including the common 2836 clones, do not fit the original case without adapters. The caseback on a real 1655 is plain steel with a stamped reference number.
Checks Before You Buy
- Ask for photos of the movement, the caseback threads, and the inside of the caseback.
- Compare the serial and reference numbers to a Rolex database.
- Weigh the watch. A real 1655 on a 7836 bracelet sits near 120 grams.
- Meet a watchmaker who knows vintage Rolex. A short inspection costs less than a wrong purchase.